The Digital Lab - Formulations

This stick formula hard texture is possible thanks to a mix of two oil thickening polymers : Estogel® M which brings strength and Estogel® Green which brings elasticity. The oil phase is enriched with Sabosoft NSIL MB, a multifunctional active emollient oil for a full repair and protection, combined to JD Lusteris™ which maintains the natural hydro-lipid skin barrier. Sustane™ SAIB Food Grade is added as a film former enabling an even application of the stick. MH Safran Pétales 5% CBIO TCOS and Safflower PhytPeel Petals were added to give this stick an oriental aesthetic aspect fitting with the fragrance. Eastman GEM™ Retinyl Sunflowerate and Lift Oléoactif® were added as anti-ageing actives, whereas Blush Oléoactif® is used as a skin enhancer boosting positive self-perception.

This formula is an anhydrous beige powder which changes color in contact with water to give a deep blue cleanser. Sabosoft RP gives it a smooth application and a soft after feel. Soapnut Extract Powder is perfectly adapted to this kind of formula due to its cleansing and anti-microbial properties. Salixin® Organic Powder 48 also adds anti-inflammatory properties to this cleanser. The intense change of color is due to the deep blue anti-oxidant active SAFIC’ Care A Blue Powder.

This particular formula looks like an oily gel but it is in fact an oil-in-water emulsion, with a lot of internal oily phase (from 60 to 70%). It is possible to obtain such a high oil load thanks to Pellicer™ L-30 which has a gemini structure thus allowing it to emulsify up to 70% of oil. Instead of being white as a traditional emulsion, a high amount of glycerin allows this cream to be transparent thanks to the adjustment of the refractive indexes. When applied on the skin, this gel-like texture will transform into oil, and then into milk when rinsed under water, leaving a nourishing skin feel thanks to the benefits of Neossance® Squalane.